LET ‘EM SURF ALL DAY
Ocean Therapy Rocks!
By Corky Carroll
Alright, I just want to warn you at the get go here that todays contribution to serious literature and global knowledge could be a tad rant-like and possibly semi discombobulated. (side note: wow, I wasn’t sure discombobulated was an actual word until just now when I looked it up….who knew? Way more syllables than I am used to giving up.). But stick with me because I think, in the end, I have a good point to be made and somehow, hopefully, it will become clearer as we go on.
Let me start out be telling you a little, semi well known, fact about me. I am super obsessive. When I was younger my pal Allan Seymour used to say that I had total “tunnel vision.” I would become Laser focused on one thing and not see anything else that was going on…..the “big picture,” so to speak. And he was right, it’s true. With me it always has been that way and still is.
Pretty much my whole life has been focused on surfing and my craving to be able to do it as much and as often as possible. Music has taken up a lot of my attention too. I remember one time when I was focused on learning how to play the violin. I went into the garage one morning about 8 AM to practice. I knew I was in there a long time and when I came out my wife asked where had I been all day? I looked at my watch and said, “it’s only 10 o’clock, wasn’t all day.” She looked at me dumbfounded and said, “it’s 10 o’clock at night!!!” Oops.
Lately it’s been that way with art. I have fallen in love with painting and just can’t put down the brushes. Most of my life I have looked for waves in all the t.v. shows and movies, but now I see paintings in them. Dream about ideas for new ones. I wake up and make the coffee and disappear into my corky-cave (office, music studio, art room and closet all in 9’x9’). Can’t paint enough, finish one and got idea for the next. Thank goodness people are buying them because there is no room in here (am in there now) for any more and the income is really helping to put tortillas on the table.
So, all this brings me to what I really want to say to you today. Back to surfing. Surfing is a good thing to do for many reasons. It’s super healthy right off the top. It’s also mentally soothing and clears the mind of unwanted clutter. If I have problems and things are getting me down the one thing that has always helped was to paddle out and let the vibe of being in the water relax and take my mind off whatever it was that was bothering me.
There are so many bad things going on in the world, right in our own neighborhoods too, that our kids need good things like surfing to keep ‘em going in a good direction. And I am talking about the actual act of going surfing, not just hangin’ out at the beach with the surf crowd. In the water physical surfing.
I really don’t like watching the news anymore. It’s dark. I always said they should break the news up into two different shows…. The good news and the bad news. You get your choice. Wanna be bummed out and scared to leave your living room? Ya got the bad. Wanna be happy and encouraged that the world is actually a decent place to live? Ya got the good. The weather and sports can go either way, depending on if it’s stormy or your team lost. I am a firm believer in good vs bad. Am a huge fan of good.
Back to our kids. My pal Tom Morey, the guy who invented the “Boogie Board,” hired me to do a radio commercial way back when “boogies” first came out. He wrote a song for it that had the verse “Buy your boy a boogie and send him to the sea. Initiate the lad into the moving wall fraternity. Teach your kids to read and write then let them surf all day. Learning how to surf through life is learning that will pay.”
I think he was right. Too many kids are doing nothing and that is not good. We live in a great place and it has an ocean, with good surf. If your kids wanna surf, let them do it. They will not only be healthier for it, they will also be happier.
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